| Living in the shadow of an active volcano
can be a dangerous game at the best of times. The 1994 eruption of Mouth
Merapi (appropriately translated as Fire Mountain of Mountain of Fire)
in Central Java is certainly testimony to that. Whole villages disappeared
in mud slides and hundreds of people tragically lost their lives in a
shower of destruction. But there are also advantages to living so close
to the awesome forces that have shaped our planet, especially in Java.
Fertile rice fields that cover every available piece of land, like an
outrageous patchwork quilt, provide three crops a year, and with tens
of millions of mouths to feed that means a lot of rice.
Cradles of Culture
Culture, the arts, magic, spirits, powers of good and evil together
with a healthy respect for nature are all very much intertwined and
part of the central Javanese makeup which has held a special fascination
for visitors from all over the world for years. Literally at the very
heart of the island lies Yogyakarta, normally shortened to Yogya (pronounced
Jog-ja) and neighbouring Surakarta or solo often described as the cradles
of Javanese culture'. It is Yogya, however, that carries the rare honour
of being a Special Region within Indonesia.
Originally named Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat
(meaning orderly and peaceful town - the beauty of the world), the younger
city of Yogyakarta is where most visitors are likely to experience the
heritage of the once mighty Mataram Empire. The whole court moved from
there, however, to the banks of Java's longest river, Bengawan Solo
in the late 1600's until a land dispute in 1755 effectively split the
power of Mataram into two; the Sultanates of Yogyakarta and Solo The
royal courts of both cities are remarkably similar in style and are
still the hub of a traditional way of life, radiating a spirit of refinement
which has been the hall mark of Javanese art and culture for centuries.
Traditional Ways, Modern Days
For the visitor, Yogya is undoubtedly the more popular of the two cities.
While modernization is rapidly changing the face of Jakarta, Yogya still
retains its character while Solo is pretty much like any other Javanese
city. Both are dominated by Dutch colonial architecture and the fact
that many of these buildings appear not to have seen a brush of paint
since those times, simply enhances their charm.
Just strolling down the city's main street
of Jalan Malioboro is a good insight into the life if Yogya's people.
Old shuttered houses jut into the road, their arches framing a colourful
world of street hawkers and storekeepers. Here, in dusty corner shops
or in huge gleaming department store you can find anything from the
latest fashions to fifty year old marionettes. And, of course, truck
loads of batik.
There is so much to see and do in Yogyakarta and Solo that a few days
sightseeing is hardly enough. And then, after you think you have seen
it all it's time to head for the nearby beach Parangtritis, a special
place for those who believe in the legends of the Queen of South Seas,
Nyai Ruro Kidul and enjoy even more facets of central Java's charm.
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